While Myanmar’s lowland cities of the mid 2010s were full of hope during a heady political spring, the country’s upland towns and villages were still marked by the slow, roiling violence of the world’s longest-running ongoing civil war. The violence was so widespread that even I, as a foreigner, got caught in it from time to time.
The violence could be slow and eerie: traveling between major lowland cities, long distance buses were stopped in the night by uniformed soldiers conducting document and contraband checks. But slow violence could turn frenzied in an instant. In upland areas, unmarked checkpoints were fashioned from spools of razor wire stretched across entire roads. Armed men, unidentifiable in tank tops, jeans, and flip flops, would emerge from the forest, rifles slung across their shoulders, to surround the car or van until windows were lowered and papers proffered. I have been witness to one firefight and two shelling attacks.
These firsthand brushes with armed conflict compelled me to apply to graduate school. But it wasn’t the violence that intruiged me so much as people’s reactions to it. Even more disturbing than the violence I witnessed was the icy nonchalance displayed by everyone else caught in the clashes.
How did politics and society in Burma become so warped that perpetual violence is treated as normal?
© 2025 Michael Mandelkorn.